By Richard Nalley
Charles Smith
Nine years ago, this California native was managing a rock band in Copenhagen when he made an unusual career shift: “I left my life in Denmark and moved to Walla Walla, Washington, where I knew exactly one person.” That was Cayuse Vineyards’ Christophe Baron, who had rhapsodized to Smith about the potential of Washington Syrah. Smith taught himself how to make wine by creating minuscule lots of Syrah for his own K brand. Now his wines are some of Washington’s most sought-after. And Smith’s The Magnificent Wine Company wines (House Wine Red and White) and “modernist” Charles Smith Wines (The Velvet Devil Merlot, Kung Fu Girl Riesling and more) are among the best values anywhere. Despite his success, Smith remains a rocker at heart, with the 80-mph motorcycle habit to prove it.
2006 K Syrah Walla Walla Valley Cougar Hills
95 points
Big, dense and complex, this red hits hard, then backs off, leaving a trail of plum, blackberry, black olive, smoke and mineral flavors that linger. Tannins are present and crisp, but don’t get in the way. Best from 2010 through 2018. 260 cases made. —H.S.
2006 K Syrah Walla Walla Valley “Morrison Lane”
94 points
Big and brawny, delivering a huge mouthful of tar-and black olive—accented plum and currant flavors, coalescing into a rich, complex finish. A sizeable wine with poise. Best from 2011 through 2016. 250 cases made. —H.S.
94 points
This rich, ripe red is generous with its spicy green and black olive flavors, which weave through plums, blackberry and wet stone character that remains powerful through the deftly balanced finish. The tannins need some time to absorb. Best from 2011 through 2016. 140 cases made. —H.S.
93 points
Rich, ripe and distinctive for the tarry, smoky dark chocolate and black olive character that weaves through blackberry and ripe cherry fruit, all of it mingling on the solid, well-formed finish. Best from 2011 through 2016. 440 cases made. —H.S.
92 points
Dense, ripe and chewy, this is packed with black cherry, black plum and licorice flavors, hinting at savory herbs and charred meat as the finish rolls on. Complex and well-structured, this needs time to flourish. Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. Best from 2010 through 2016. 215 cases made. —H.S.
91 points
Dark and chewy, this is dense with blackberry, currant and tar flavors, glowing and pulsing against a layer of smoky tannins. Shows a lot of life. Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. Best from 2011 through 2016. 693 cases made. —H.S.
90 points
Polished and lively, with a lovely open-textured feel to the plum, tobacco and roasted meats flavors, which linger on the extensive, perfumed finish. Drink now through 2013. 1500 cases made. —H.S
Score: 16 wines, scored 91-99 points
July 2008
K Vintners is where the larger-than-life Charles Smith presides. He is an innovator, marketing genius, outspoken, you name it – but above all the man is a brilliant winemaker who knows where all the great fruit is hidden. In a region where blending is the rule of thumb, he is the ultimate terroirist. Each wine reflects the vineyard from which it was produced but there is also a house style which lets you know immediately who made the wine. While it’s way too soon to put K Vintners on the same level as a Domaine Leroy or Domaine Zind-Humbrecht, the experience you get tasting in the cellar is much the same as in those legendary wineries, brilliantly made wines reflecting the terroir but also a winemaking signature that makes it totally clear which winery made the wine.” Jay Miller, for The Wine Advocate
94 points
DRINK: 2012 - 2020
The 2005 “El Jefe” En Chamberlin was sourced from another Cayuse vineyard. Smoky aromas with notes o black cherry and blackberry are impressive. On the palate the wine is layered and complex with tons of flavor and a sense of elegance. This lengthy wine will be at its best from 2012 to 2020.
93 points
DRINK: 2015 - 2030
The 2005 “Roma” is 75% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Syrah. It reveals aromas of blood sausage, bacon, black currants, and blackberry followed by a layered yet elegant wine with great concentration and 6-8 years of aging potential. It will be at its best from 2015 to 2030.
94 points
The 2005 “Ovide” En Cerise is the same blend as Roma but from a vineyard owned by Christophe Baron of Cayuse. It offers up notes of fresh herbs, leather, and tobacco, is a bit broader and mouth-coating, and slightly longer in the finish.
92 points
The 2005 “The Boy” is 88% Grenache and 12% Syrah. It offers sensational aromatics, kirsch liqueur, smoke, toast, black cherry, blueberry, and garrigue. On the palate, this Chateauneuf du Pape look-alike delivers gobs of ripe fruit and layers of flavor but manages to remain elegant. This lengthy effort can be enjoyed now but should keep for a decade. The quality of Washington Grenache is clearly demonstrated by The Boy.
96 points
DRINK: 2015 - 2030
The 2005 “The Creator” En Cerise is 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Syrah. The wine is super-expressive aromatically with notes of pain grille, pencil lead, blueberry, spice box, and black currant jam. Sweet and layered with all components in harmony, this opulent effort easily conceals enough tannin to support 6-8 years of cellaring. It should be at its best from 2015 to 2030.
94 points
DRINK: 2010 - 2018
The 2005 Syrah “The Deal” – Sundance Vineyard is purple-colored with a fragrant nose of mineral, scorched earth, game, espresso, blueberry, and blackberry. Opulent on the palate, rich, and full-flavored, the wine has gobs of spicy fruit leading to a lengthy, fruit-filled finish. Give it 2-3 years to evolve and drink it through 2018.
92 points
DRINK: 2011 - 2020
The 2005 Syrah “Cougar Hills” is a bit more restrained aromatically with a more elegant personality. Concentrated, ripe, and round, the flavors are already exhibiting complexity, and the finish is very long. Allow for another 3-4 years in the cellar and drink it through 2020.
91 points DRINK: 2008 - 2016
The 2005 Syrah “Morrison Lane” is purple-colored with an excellent perfume of wood smoke, mineral, spice box, blueberry, and blackberry liqueur. The flavors are developing well but the wine is in need of a bit more mid-palate depth. Drink it over the next 6-8 years.
92 points
The 2005 Syrah “Phil Lane” was sourced from a vineyard yielding 0.5 tons of fruit per acre. The nose offers up meat, game, bacon, spice box, pepper, and blueberry. It is just a bit lean on the palate and a bit restrained but the texture is smooth, the flavors pleasing, and the finish is long.
95 points
The 2005 Syrah “The Beautiful” is also from the Cougar Hills Vineyard but in this case 5% Viognier was co-fermented. This gives the aromatics a serious lift. On the palate the wine is round and rich, elegant yet powerful. Spice, game, and pepper accompany layered blue fruits into a lengthy finish. This is a wine for hedonists only.
97 points
DRINK: 2016 - 2035
The 2003 Syrah “The Hustler” is a full-bore, pedal to the metal wine with a splendid perfume of pain grille, pencil lead, blueberry, blackberry, and licorice. It is the most structured of the Syrahs – 8-10 years of cellaring would be beneficial, although the wine is already layered and rich. With ideal storage it should continue to provide pleasure through 2035.
95 points
The 2005 Syrah “Wells” is dark ruby-colored with an alluring bouquet of smoked meat, game, and camphor oil. Elegant yet opulent, the wine is already complex, the fruit ripe and sweet, and the finish long. This concentrated effort is a total crowd-pleaser.
91 points DRINK:2008 - 2010
K Vintners showed one white wine, the 2007 Viognier. It was fermented with native yeasts (as are all the K Vintner wines) in neutral oak. Light gold-colored, it offers up alluring aromas of mineral, peach, apricot, and tropical notes. On the palate there is excellent acidity and the minerality of the wine becomes more apparent. Well-balanced and long, this is a wine to drink over the next 1-2 years with Pacific Northwest salmon.
Score: 95
Region: Walla Walla Valley
This is only the second time that winemaker Charles Smith has made a wine called “The Beautiful” and it lives up to its name and reputation. The aromas shoot from the glass; young, herbal and strikingly peppery. This shows a complexity that is rare outside of France. The flavors run through the entire length of the palate, a fascinating mix of herb, leaf, earth, and tightly wound berry fruit. It's young and crunchy, thought not fleshy, a wine that is a unique combination of masculine and feminine qualities. It should age well for at least a decade.
Score: 93
Region: Walla Walla Valley
The “Cougar Hills”, which is usually blended with components that are now in 'The Beautiful,' is striking on its own. It's a dark, meaty, sappy wine, supple and saturated with gorgeous color and sensuous fruit. The spices are chromatic, not simple, and the flavors include charcuterie, wild cherry, smoke, pepper and green tea. The palate is seamless and tightly wrapped, gently unfolding to reveal a lingering finish with the promise of a long cellar life ahead.
Score: 92
Region: Walla Walla Valley
A lot of stems and whole clusters go into the winemaking, adding spice and a chewy earthiness. The nose is scented with camphor, green tea and smoked ham. This is no fruit bomb, rather it's a wine that gathers itself in the mid-palate and shows its real strength in the back half, as its layers of earth, soy, tomato leaf and rhubarb mix and mingle. Long, earthy and complex, this is moving closer and closer to a Cayuse style. It finishes with just a little bit of heat.
Score: 93
Region: Walla Walla Valley
The wine from this tiny (two-acre) plot is almost jet-black, with a garnet/violet edge. Lavender and violets, black fruit and satiny tannins reveal more of the toasty oak than any other K single-vineyard Syrah. Grainy, textural and lush, with lots of pepper and citrus, this has the most sweetness in the black cherry fruit. Supple, silky, satiny and nicely detailed.
Score: 90
Region: Walla Walla Valley
Fruit-forward, spicy and appealing, this is consistent with previous editions of this popular wine. Since 2005 is a particularly good year, this has more concentration and fruit power than usual. I particularly like the tight blackberry core, wrapped in leaf and showing a lot of earthy flavors. The 30% new oak is folded into the wine, not dominant, and it finished with good focus, purity and balance.
Score: 89
Region: Walla Walla Valley
“The Boy” is 88% Grenache and 12% Syrah; the Grenache comes from Christophe Baron's biodynamic Armada vineyard. It's got that biodynamic, composty undertone to the fruit, with plenty of spice and earthy elements. There is a citrus component also - it's an intriguing wine that would be difficult to peg as Grenache in a blind tasting. It's very smoky, very earthy and gamy. The tannins are smooth, but very earthy and leafy, with some bitterness. It could be a Chateauneuf-du-Pape.
Score: 90
Region: Walla Walla Valley
The cool climate fruit provides the bracing aromas, the lively texture, the crispness without bitterness, and fruit that doesn't veer into overripe peach or apricot. It's got an edge to it, but it's very clean, stylish and polished, with a nice level of intensity that has no bitter, hot or volatile elements.
“His 2002’s tasted from barrel appear to be exceptional…K Vintners rocks with Washington Syrah.”-Wine Spectator
“Top ten Syrah in America.”-Wine and Spirits
“Pinot Noir and Merlot are first-rate wines.”-Seattle Times
“Among the state’s most interesting.”
“These wines offer fascinating layers of richness.”-San Francisco Chonicle
“His Syrahs are focused, pure and abounding with character.”-WineStreet.com
“I recently tasted Smith’s Syrah and it sent my taste buds into orbit!”-Bob Woehler, Wine Press
“Exceptional!”-NW Palate
Score: 93
Region: Walla Walla Valley
Score: 91
Region: Wahluke Slope
Score: 91
Region: Walla Walla Valley
Score: 92
Region: Walla Walla Valley
Score: 91
Region: Walla Walla Valley
An unusual blend of Grenache, tempranillo and syrah, this is the most forward and voluptuous of the K wines. Sweet, supple and smooth, with lots of midpalate fruit.
Aromas of fresh-turned earth, dried leaf, manure and herb. Dig under the scents of earth and you’ll find some nicely ripened, sweet berry fruit.
Another aromatic and pure expression of tangy berry fruit, enlivened with scents of smoke, meat and black olive. Balanced and taut, supple and delicious.
Taut, spicy, young and aggressive; a bold wine that tastes like a breath of fresh air, a slap in the face that wakes up the palate.
Score: 91
Region: Walla Walla Valley
Round, ripe and decidedly gamy, an impressive mix of plum, berry and roasted meat flavors, hinting at pepper and exotic spices as it all lingers on the fine-grained finish. Give it time to develop. Best after 2005. 280 cases made.
Score: 91
Region: Walla Walla Valley
Dark, ripe and generous, a remarkably elegant mouthful of plum, pepper and exotic spice flavors, finishing with a wee touch of olive and game, all with some refinement to the tannins. Best after 2005. 138 cases made
Score: 89
Region: Walla Valley
Dark, ripe and generous, a remarkably elegant mouthful of plum, pepper and exotic spice flavors, finishing with a wee touch of olive and game, all with some refinement to the tannins. Best after 2005. 138 cases made
Score: 89
Region: Columbia Valley
Bright and crisp, with cherry and white pepper aromas and flavors, finishing with blueberry and cream notes, lingering nicely. Drink now through 2007. 630 cases made.
Top 10 Syrah in America - Score: 93
The fresh blueberry flavor of Walla Walla syrah shines from this luscious young wine. It seems alive in the glass, vibrant and balanced, with a fine exposition of flavors and a structural austerity that takes it beyond simple, delicious fruit. The flavors are long, a lasting impression that should only gain further length with age. Buy some to drink now with game, and more to cellar. (110 cases)
Score: 89
Region: Walla Walla Valley
Supple, juicy style emphasizes elegant structure, even if the flavors are not as exuberant as other Syrahs. It has nicely focused blackberry and mineral notes that echo nicely on the firm finish. Drink now through 2005. 340 cases made.
A very different profile from the Morrison. Its nose is dominated by fresh pipe tobacco, cedar, and rich warm spice, with flavors of intense black plum, black cherry, licorice, and pie spices. A unique hint of violets completes the finish. A fascinating wine.
Made from K Vintner’s prized “En Cerise Vineyard” fruit, and is made with Bordeaux style intensity. This Wine is richly meaty and big, with lots of tannic backbone and structure. No wimpy wine here, this is a big, darkly colored, hearty wine to stand up to venison or cassoulet.
Full of herbal notes, with lavender, violets, fresh dried grass and thyme in the nose. Big fruit is well integrated with more herbal and gamey notes in the flavors, and the finish is exceptionally smooth, yet shows tannic structure.